Audio test

Check your speakers or headphones in about 30 seconds. Left, right, stereo, bass and top end, straight in the browser.

Silent
Left Right

Turn your volume to about a third before you start. Tones are louder than music.

  1. Left channel

    A 440 Hz tone plays in the left speaker only. Sound from the right means the channels are swapped.

  2. Right channel

    The same tone, right side only. Nothing here after a working left usually means a dead driver, a loose plug or a balance slider pushed to one side.

  3. Stereo check

    Left, then right, then both together. The middle pass should sit in the centre of your head on headphones.

  4. Bass sweep

    A tone climbing from 20 Hz to 200 Hz. Stop it the moment you first hear it — that point is roughly where your speakers give up on low end.

  5. Frequency range

    A tone climbing from 8 kHz towards 22 kHz. Stop it when it disappears. Where it stops depends on your ears and your speakers together, so this is a rough reading, not a hearing test.

All the tools

What this audio test does

This is a sound test for the whole chain between a file and your ears: the browser, the output device your computer picked, the cable, the driver in the speaker, and the room you are sitting in. It plays tones your browser generates on the spot, so there is nothing to download and nothing to wait for. Press start, answer five short questions, and you get a plain reading of what is working and what is not.

The five steps run in the order that isolates faults fastest. Left first, then right, because a single silent channel is by far the most common complaint and two tones settle it. Then a stereo pass, which catches the subtler problem of channels that both work but are wired the wrong way round. Then a bass sweep and a top-end sweep, which tell you the range your hardware actually covers rather than the range printed on the box.

How to run the test properly

Set your volume to about a third before you start. Generated tones carry far more energy at a single frequency than music does at the same apparent loudness, and a full-volume 60 Hz tone into a small speaker is unpleasant and occasionally damaging. You can always turn it up.

Take your headphones off the desk and put them on the right way round — the left cup is almost always marked, usually inside the headband. If you are testing speakers, sit roughly between them. If you are on Bluetooth, allow a moment of delay on every step; a 200 ms gap between pressing play and hearing something is the wireless link, not a fault.

Close anything else making sound, especially a video in another tab. An equaliser, a virtual-surround app or a "spatial audio" setting will change what you hear on the stereo step, so switch those off for the duration if you want a clean answer about the hardware.

Reading the result

Both channels play. Your output works. If music still sounds wrong, the problem is upstream — a file, an app mixer, or a processing setting.

One channel is silent. Work from the cheapest fix outwards. Check the balance control in the system sound settings, which gets knocked sideways more often than people expect. Reseat the plug, fully — a jack that is one click short commonly plays only one side. Flex the cable near the connector while a tone plays; crackling means a broken conductor. Finally, try the same headphones on a phone. If they work there, the fault is the computer or its port.

Neither channel plays. Nine times in ten this is the output device rather than the hardware. Plugging headphones in does not always switch the output on Windows, a monitor connected over HDMI often steals the default device, and a browser tab can be muted independently of the system volume.

The channels are swapped. On speakers this is a cable, not a setting. On headphones, check the orientation first, then any audio app that offers channel swapping or a reversed stereo mode.

The bass sweep gave you nothing until quite high. That is typical and not a fault. Laptop speakers routinely produce nothing below about 150 Hz, phone speakers nothing below about 400 Hz. Only a reasonably sized speaker or a subwoofer reaches the bottom of the range.

What the frequency bands mean

Twenty hertz to twenty kilohertz is the conventional span of human hearing, and it splits into bands that behave very differently. Sub-bass, below about 60 Hz, is felt more than heard and needs a big driver. Bass to around 250 Hz carries the kick drum and the bass line. The mids, from roughly 500 Hz to 2 kHz, hold most of a human voice — every speaker ever made reproduces this band, which is why a broken speaker usually still passes speech. The upper mids around 3 kHz are where the ear is most sensitive, so faults there are the most obvious. Above 6 kHz you are in cymbals and air, and above about 12 kHz most people's hearing and most cheap drivers both start to give up.

Why a browser test and not an app

Anything that plays a fixed audio file is testing the file as much as the hardware. The Web Audio API generates each tone mathematically at the moment you press play, at your device's own sample rate, so what reaches the speaker is a clean signal at exactly the frequency shown on the readout. It also means nothing is recorded and nothing is uploaded: the page never asks for microphone access, because it does not need to listen to anything — you are the measuring instrument.

The waveform on screen is drawn from the signal being played, not an animation. A flat line means silence, and a visible wave means the browser is producing output. That is worth knowing on its own: if the trace moves and you hear nothing, the browser is fine and the fault is after it, in the output device or the hardware.

When to use the other tools

The tone generator holds any single frequency between 1 Hz and 22 kHz so you can hunt a rattle, tune an instrument or check a filter. The speaker test and the headphone test run the checks specific to each kind of hardware. The bass test finds the point where your low end starts, and the hearing range test finds the point near the top where yours stops. All of them are free, and none of them need an account.

Frequently asked questions

How do I test my audio online?

Press start on the test above and answer each step as it plays. It sends a tone to the left speaker, then the right, then both, then sweeps the bass and the top end. You need a browser and working output — there is nothing to install and nothing to sign up for.

Is this audio test free?

Yes, all of it. Every tool on the site runs in your browser with the Web Audio API, so there is no account, no upload and no file leaves your device.

Why can I only hear one side?

One-sided output is usually one of four things: a balance slider pushed to one side in the system mixer, a plug not seated fully in the jack, a broken cable near the connector, or a genuinely dead driver. Run the left/right test, then try the same headphones on another device. If they work there, the problem is the first device, not the headphones.

Can I test my speakers without headphones?

Yes. The same test works on laptop speakers, desk speakers and a stereo system. Speakers sitting close together make the stereo step harder to judge, so listen for which side is louder rather than expecting a sharp separation.

What frequency should I test my speakers at?

440 Hz is a good general-purpose tone: it sits in the middle of the range every speaker reproduces, so if it is missing the problem is not the speaker size. Use 1 kHz to compare loudness between two systems, 40 to 60 Hz to check a subwoofer, and 8 to 12 kHz to check whether the treble is arriving.

What is a normal hearing range?

The textbook range for human hearing is 20 Hz to 20 kHz, but the top end narrows with age for almost everyone. Many people over 25 stop somewhere around 16 to 17 kHz and many over 50 around 11 to 13 kHz. A browser test also depends on your headphones and your volume, so treat the result as a rough reading rather than a measurement.

Does this test my hearing?

No. It plays a tone through unknown hardware in an unknown room, which is not how a hearing test works. It tells you what came through the whole chain — file, browser, driver, speaker, room, ears. If you are worried about your hearing, see an audiologist, who will test each ear separately in a controlled booth.

Why does the bass sweep sound like nothing until halfway?

Because most small speakers produce almost nothing below 100 to 150 Hz. Laptop and phone speakers are physically too small to move enough air down there. That is normal and is exactly what the bass step is measuring — the point where your hardware starts, not where the tone starts.

My left and right are swapped. How do I fix it?

On speakers, swap the cables at the back of the amplifier or the speakers themselves. On headphones, check that you have them on the right way round, then check whether an equaliser or a virtual-surround app is inverting the channels. On desktop Windows, a swapped pair is almost always a cable, not a setting.

Can I use this test on my phone?

Yes. The test is built for a phone screen first, and it works over the speaker, wired headphones or Bluetooth. Bluetooth adds a delay of 100 to 300 ms, so give each step a moment before deciding you heard nothing.

Do the tones damage speakers or headphones?

Not at sensible volume. What can cause damage is a sustained loud tone, especially a square wave into a tweeter or a very low tone into a small driver at high output. Start at about a third of your volume and only go up if you need to. If anything rattles or distorts, turn it down.

What is the difference between a sine, square, sawtooth and triangle wave?

A sine wave is a single pure frequency and is the right choice for testing. The other three add harmonics: a square wave is loud and harsh and reveals rattles, a sawtooth is buzzy and useful for hearing distortion, and a triangle sits between a sine and a square. For a straight speaker or channel check, use a sine.

Does the test work without JavaScript?

The page renders and every guide is readable, but the tones themselves need JavaScript, because they are generated in the browser rather than downloaded as audio files. That is also why there is nothing to wait for — no file to load, no advertisement before the sound.

What do I do if nothing plays at all?

Check that the browser tab is not muted, that the system volume is up, and that the right output device is selected — plugging in headphones does not always move the output on Windows. Then reload and press start again. The first press is what permits the browser to make sound at all, so a tone will never play from a page you have not interacted with.